Northland 2017

It will seem very surreal in a few hours, when we are home in front of the fire, to think that we started the day with another visit to the Treaty Grounds and a quiet sit in the sun on James Busby’s doorstep contemplating the flagpole and the view across the water to Russell.   It was worth another visit, and we also took in a lovely photographic exhibition which we didn’t have time for yesterday. Then onwards, leaving the Bay of Islands behind for our final ‘tourist’ box-tick, the Hundertwasser public toilets at Kawakawa.   Gaudi meets Dr Seuss best describes this gem in what is otherwise a very ordinary little NZ town.   We had enjoyed Hundertwasser in his home town of Vienna 6 years ago, and it was nice to visit his strange gift to New Zealand (and make use of it). After this we were mindful of our flight deadline and the big unknown which is the time needed to get through Auckland and out to the airport.    Via the new...

Our brains are full of history and important New Zealand stories today, after a full schedule in the Bay of Islands. After half an hour’s drive from very pretty Kerikeri we arrived in the resort town of Paihia. First impressions were very much of the Akaroa - Queenstown - Coromandel slick tourist operation, not too crowded so a very laid back vibe.   Lots of eateries, tour operators and souvenir vendors on the main street facing the pohutakawa lined beachfront. We jumped on a ferry to Kororareka (or Russell), once known as the ‘hell hole of the Pacific’, where we had a fascinating guided tour of Pompallier House. What an operation the early Marists ran, not only printing early religious texts exclusively in Maori but tanning the leather for binding as well. The tanning operation still runs, involving immersion of the hide in animal urine, soaking in bark pulp and slow curing over many months. A wonderful guide took us step by step through the printing proc...

We have washed up in the very pleasant subtropical town of Kerikeri after a long day in which we achieved our south to north mission. The day started with an 8.30am check in with the Harrison's Cape Runner company in Kaitaia, followed by an 8.45 departure with delightful driver Danny. A mathematics teacher to some very difficult students, he drives the tours for a bit of extra school holiday money. The 4 wheel drive converted truck with 23 aboard headed north up Highway 1.  It was soon apparent that what would have been a rather dull up-and-back type trip if we had done it in our car, was going to be a very informative and entertaining tourist experience. We heard about Dalmatian and Polish immigrant families, saw vast avocado orchards, were taken to DC's childhood camping retreat at Hauhora Heads and deserted East Coast Rarawa beach. We all stopped at the local shop in Te Kau which would be dead but for the tourist buses calling in for giant ice-creams. By about ...

There was a tropical downpour during much of Saturday night, but Sunday dawned sunny and steamy. From Waipu Cove we backtracked a couple of kms to Langs Beach so that Rosemary could revisit the world of her childhood – summer holidays with the Aspden and Kidd Clan. The house is still there and Rosemary actually spoke to the current owner who purchased it in 1974 from Nance and Charlie (Kidd) – Gran’s sister. A very special start to the day. Had a fascinating hour or so at the Matakohe Kauri Museum. What extraordinary wood and gum, and what extraordinary hardship, skill and ingenuity the workers displayed in the felling, harvesting and milling processes over the hundred years.   The pictures here show a replica of the kauri saw mill and a representation of the circumference of various legendary kauri - Tane Mahuta is the smallest circle. An hour or so later – we were in the State Forest at Waipoua where we stopped off for a two minute hike i...