A big history lesson


Our brains are full of history and important New Zealand stories today, after a full schedule in the Bay of Islands.

After half an hour’s drive from very pretty Kerikeri we arrived in the resort town of Paihia. First impressions were very much of the Akaroa - Queenstown - Coromandel slick tourist operation, not too crowded so a very laid back vibe.  Lots of eateries, tour operators and souvenir vendors on the main street facing the pohutakawa lined beachfront.

We jumped on a ferry to Kororareka (or Russell), once known as the ‘hell hole of the Pacific’, where we had a fascinating guided tour of Pompallier House. What an operation the early Marists ran, not only printing early religious texts exclusively in Maori but tanning the leather for binding as well. The tanning operation still runs, involving immersion of the hide in animal urine, soaking in bark pulp and slow curing over many months.




A wonderful guide took us step by step through the printing process. Did you realise the number of common turns of phrase that come from printing? To quoin a phrase, a dab hand, making a good first impression, strong silent type, mind your ps and qs.  We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the abundant gardens before jumping back on Winston Peters local ferry to do a quick drop off at our beach front motel (surprisingly, the cheapest on our trip).




We walked, with no idea what to expect, the 1 km to the Treaty Grounds over the bridge at Waitangi.  (Tip: the price of $40 per person would have been well worth it, but as New Zealanders the entry price was half.)

We signed up for the 3pm tour and as the only people on it, we had our extremely personable guide to ourselves for 45 minutes.  He showed us the largest war canoe in the world, seating 120 warriors, which is still used annually (note the rails underneath for launching). 



We enjoyed discussing Maori/Pakeha history and the Treaty with him as we walked up to the flagpole to sit under a Norfolk Pine planted by Mrs Busby in the 1840s.  The newish meetinghouse and the historic Busby house have the most glorious view and relationship to each other, sitting amidst lush gardens, native planting and huge lawn.





The one year old Museum is respectful, informative and sympathetically laid out to tell the story of both Maori and British settlement through to 21st century evolving relationships and the on-going dialogue about what it all means today.


It was huge and having left at closing time we sat in the sun realising we had more questions and so went back to ask.  To our surprise, we discovered that the entry fee gives a two-day pass so we will return in the morning to learn a little more.


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